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The Cosmetics Industry descends on men
Sunday May 28th, 2006 at 11:30 pm | politicsSo here’s something interesting I discovered in a ‘women’s magazine’ while waiting for my fish’n'chips (down at Te Aro Fish, the best fish’n'chip shop in Wellington):
It’s an ad for a male cosmetic product. Let’s look at the imagery for a second (click on the image for a bigger version).
On the left panel, you have an image of a stereotypically attractive male model. The wording says, “He think he looks damn good?”. On the right panel is a zoom-in on the area surrounding his right eye. The wording on this says, “You think he looks damn tired.” The rest of the ad is the typical quasi-scientific nonsense that is supposed to legitimise the product as being useful; notable phrases in it include “Signs of fatigue, dull complexion and tired features? Help him!” and down the bottom (not included in the above image) a special male-inclusive version of the company’s motto: “they’re worth it too.”
The obvious target for this ad is women. They are, after all, the people who read women’s magazines; the text is directed at some imaginary woman who is supposed to help ‘him’ (friend or lover, but presumably friend) to look better.
But advertisers aren’t stupid. They know that men read women’s magazines too. So let’s look at this from a male perspective, imagining we are a male reader who chances upon this ad. On the left panel you’re shown an image of the kind of idealised youthful masculine attractiveness that as a man you’re supposed to aspire to (without, of course, ever acknowledging any such aspiration — to do so would be ‘unmanly’). This man is attractive, there’s no mistaking that. By the standards that we as men are supposed (not) to have internalised, he does indeed ‘look damn good.’
Having reached this conclusion, that he looks damn good, latent homophobia aside, the text on the panel throws this whole understanding of idealised male attractiveness upside down — and with it, our comfort. Suppose that I as a man can look at this picture and identify myself as an attractive male through it, as I am supposed to be able to do in the kind of unspoken untalked about way with which we men seem to have to deal with these body image issues. Having become comfortable, I have my comfort ripped out from under me by the text. “He thinks he looks damn good?” becomes “You think you look damn good?”, spoken by a female voice, who knows that not only are you just like all the other men, but that this manifests most clearly in the fact that you’re stupid; because we men are stupid, especially when it comes to things like appearance. “I think you look damn tired.” You unattractive idiot.
So if you happen to be a guy, and you’re a little bit insecure about your self-image, and you’re a little bit insecure about whether you’re even supposed to have a self-image to feel insecure about, then these images and text will press upon you an even deeper sense of insecurity. Perhaps the reason I’m single/I never get laid/my last partner left me/my current partner is thinking of leaving me is because she can see things about me that I don’t even notice, because I don’t understand how this appearance thingy works anyway. I’m an unattractive idiot. These people claim to be able to “help him” (that’s me) deal with “signs of fatigue, dull complexion and tired features”, whatever they might be. Obviously the (female) reader knows what these mean. I don’t. I should buy this product so whatever these things are, they might help me with them.
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This is all based on my initial reaction three days ago to coming across this image. Even now, and it was there before but the shock of seeing this has made it worse, there’s a tiny nagging corner of my brain that wonders whether I as a man shouldn’t be buying and using these products after all. Even though I actively disbelieve in the power of cosmetics, it’s there in the corner. I’m well informed by feminist theory, with a high degree of self-confidence, and a certainly positive if not spectacularly so self-image; and yet I’m still getting that nagging corner of my brain effect that is the very point of all advertising.
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So what evidence is there to support a male target reader for this ad?
First, there’s the details text. “non-greasy texture, non-sticky”. Why does the female reader care whether it’s non-greasy and non-sticky? They’re not using it. “Apply in the morning and/or evening over the whole face.” Again, why does a female reader need to know this? “Use after shaving” — or this? “to help sooth razor burn” What would a female reader know or care or want to know about facial razor burn?
Second, there’s the packaging. This is a Manly Package. It’s square, it’s silver and orange. It’s a shiny chrome truck with hazard warnings. It looks like a spray deodorant bottle, which is familiar and friendly. It’s not a tube or (heaven forbid) a tub, which both smack of girliness.
Last, there’s the iconography. The visual metaphor for the supposed rejuvenation effects of the product is a lead-acid battery. “Visibly recharges the skin”, says the accompanying text. Your body’s a big car, your skin’s just like a car battery; it needs recharging. We can recharge it for you.
Look at that font. We’re entering the (weird and bizarre) territory of male-shaving-product graphic design here. 24H, square firm bold masculine text.
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Remember a couple of years ago, when it kind of came out that the All Blacks used moisturising cream on their hands? Suddenly it seemed OK for men to use moisturiser — because if the manliest of men, the most rugby playing beer drinking of the lot, used moisturiser, then it must be not only acceptable but even on some level the correct thing to do. Someone in the cosmetics industry was thinking, back then. Men are a little under 50% of the population. That’s a huge unexplored target market.
So you know what? Expect to see more of this. ‘They’re worth it too.’ Thanks. I appreciate the effort.
Bastards.
